The Hidden Wine Gems of Emilia Romagna

Once wine began to be produced in a more industrial context, in the middle of the 1800s to the mid 1900s, the most popular method of obtaining a naturally sparkling wine was by carrying out a secondary fermentation in the bottle. This method came about, as like many things, by chance. The farmers would begin the fermentation in larger tanks or barrels, then when the weather suddenly cooled in the late autumn, it would be sold on either to an Osteria, Trattoria or private consumer who would then bottle it. In the Spring, with the advent of warmer weather, the wine would undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle with the residual sugar that was left, leaving a gentle sparkle and giving birth to the lively wines that still define the region, especially Emilia, today. 

Despite being Italy’s second-largest wine-producing region, Emilia Romagna’s wines remain relatively unknown internationally. This paradox makes the region a true treasure trove for wine lovers seeking uniqueness, authenticity, heritage, as well as quality. From the golden Albana DOCG to the reinvented Lambrusco varietals, now light years from their sweet, mass-market reputation, Emilia Romagna is home to wines that deserve exploration in addition to the more famous regions like Tuscany, Veneto and Piedmont and some of the lesser known wine-producing regions such as Puglia, Calabria and Sicily. 

A Region Rooted in Culinary and Viticultural Excellence

Globally renowned for Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Emilia Romagna is more modest when it comes to its wines. Yet, this fertile land stretching from the Adriatic coast to the Apennine hills produces an impressive diversity of labels. While Tuscany, Veneto and Piedmont excel at self-promotion and consequently bask in their well-deserved fame, Emilia Romagna’s winemakers have quietly perfected their craft, blending tradition with innovation and are slowly catching up with some of Southern Italy's emerging wine regions. 

With 44 PDO and PGI food products and a growing reputation for its wines, Emilia Romagna reflects its people: humble, agricultural, and driven by quiet excellence.

The Renaissance of Emilia Romagna’s Wines

Traditionally made by farmers for local consumption, wines from this region have transformed over the past three decades. Native varietals such as Pignoletto, Albana, Ortrugo, Gutturnio, Malvasia di Candia, and the many Lambruschi are now vinified with precision and artistry. It’s worth noting that Albana di Romagna became Italy’s first white wine to achieve DOCG status in 1987, a milestone that deserves far more recognition. Winemakers also tend to favour vinifying wines with a high percentage of one varietal and predominantly in stainless steel or cement vats, opting for wood cask ageing for red ‘Riserva’ versions. Wood barrique ageing for white grape varietals is virtually unheard of, but when carried out, it is usually done with grapes from older (50 years +) vines and then for no longer than 6 months. The consensus among winemakers and consumers alike is the desire to ‘taste the grape’. 

Rediscovering Forgotten Grapes

Projects like Bologna Hills winemaker Giorgio Erioli’s Ripartiamo dal ‘800 (“Let’s start from the 1800s again”) focus on reviving rare varietals such as Alionza, Montuni, Negretto, Maiolo, and Albana Nera.

Once nearly extinct due to difficult cultivation and consequently low yields, these grapes are now sparking curiosity among both winemakers and enthusiasts, adding fresh excitement to the region’s wine scene. A tiny handful of Bologna Hills winemakers have been successfully making wine from the Negretto grape over the last few years, which was previously used to blend for its intense deep red colour. 

Lambrusco’s Redemption

Once dismissed in the 70s and 80s as a cheap, sweet, get-drunk-quick wine, especially among student populations, Lambrusco has returned with a vengeance and has finally grown up. Today’s Lambruschi, spanning four DOCs (three in Modena and one in Reggio Emilia), are sophisticated, food-friendly, and terroir-driven. From the lightly fruity, floral and elegant Lambrusco di Sorbara (often made using the Metodo Classico) to the bold and easily drinkable Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, these sparkling reds now shine as some of Italy’s most versatile wines and are perfect alongside Emilia Romagna’s rich cuisine. After all, "what grows together, goes together", as the saying goes. 

A Mosaic of Terroirs

From the fertile plains to the rolling Apennine hills, Emilia Romagna offers terroirs as diverse as its cuisine. Vineyards perched above 500 meters enjoy natural pest control, promoting sustainability and without the need for pesticides. Though still under-appreciated, exports are growing, and the world is beginning to notice Emilia Romagna’s hidden gems. 

NOTABLE GRAPE VARIETALS OF EMILIA ROMAGNA 
Pignoletto DOCG – Bologna Hills
Officially known as Grechetto Gentile, this fresh and lightly aromatic white wine offers high acidity and notes of hawthorn, elderflower, acacia, pink grapefruit, and almond. Produced as still, sparkling, and spumante, it pairs beautifully with tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, mortadella, and pork-based dishes. While still Pignoletto is beloved locally, the sparkling version is gaining acclaim as a refined alternative to Prosecco.

Lambrusco DOC – Modena Province
Three DOCs in Modena alone showcase Lambrusco’s diversity:

Lambrusco di Sorbara: The most elegant, often pale raspberry-rosé in color, with aromas of violet, raspberry, and wild strawberry. Best expressed through the Metodo Classico or Champagne Method, producing refined frizzante and spumante wines.
Lambrusco Salamino di Santacroce: Named for its salami-shaped grape clusters, this ruby-to-garnet red wine is bold, tangy, and aromatic with red fruit and jam. Often enjoyed with charcuterie boards or even splashed into tortellini in brodo (only in Modena). 
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro: distinctive because the vine has a red stalk (hence the name), the wine is dark, intense, and complex, with flavours of red and black berries, pomegranate, rose and herbs. Its distinctive dark cherry-colored foam makes it unique.

All Lambruschi pair wonderfully with Emilia’s charcuterie, handmade pasta, pork, and grilled meats.

Albana DOCG – Imola/Cesena
Italy’s first white DOCG wine (1987), Albana is a versatile varietal whose name derives from albus (Latin for “white of excellence”). Aromas range from acacia and lime blossom to citrus and orchard fruits. Sweet and passito versions reveal luscious apricot, peach, and honeyed notes which are perfect with cheese platters or desserts.

Sangiovese di Romagna DOC – Imola, Rimini
Although Tuscany claims Sangiovese fame, Romagna has a strong case as its birthplace. Medium-bodied with minerality, violets, and forest fruits, this red is crafted in classic, superiore, riserva, and novello styles. At higher altitudes, it develops bright acidity, making it a surprising match for Adriatic seafood, with versions grown nearer to sea-level altitude are perfectly paired with lamb and hearty meats.

Ortrugo DOC – Piacenza
Dating back to pre-Christian times, Ortrugo nearly disappeared after the 1800s phylloxera epidemic until revived in the 1970s. Today it’s made as still, sparkling, and spumante, with floral notes of hawthorn and acacia, crisp acidity, and a slightly bitter finish. A versatile choice with charcuterie, pumpkin dishes, and seafood pastas.

Gutturnio DOC – Parma
A blend of Barbera and Bonarda (Croatina), Gutturnio balances fruit, spice, and structure. While once produced as sparkling, today it shines in still and riserva versions, offering notes of dark fruits, spice, and tobacco. Pair it with gnocchi, ravioli, truffle dishes, and braised meats.

Malvasia di Candia Aromatica DOC – Parma/Piacenza
One of Italy’s most aromatic Malvasia types, this grape delivers floral, almond, and grassy aromas in its sparkling and still versions, and dried fruit and caramel richness in its passito form. Ideal with local pasta, charcuterie, cheeses, or traditional desserts.

If you are interested in a super deep dive into some of Emilia Romagna's most famous wines, check out the amazing Wine with Jimmy Channel on YouTube. 

Yummy Italy also organises bespoke wine experiences all over the Emilia Romagna region, largely based on your own personal interests. 

ⓒ 2025 - Helena Kyriakides for Yummy Italy