How to Travel Emilia Romagna...without getting hopelessly confused (and without spending more than you budgeted for!)

Welcome to Emilia Romagna, the region literally sandwiched between the regions of Le Marche, Lombardy, Tuscany, Liguria, Piedmont and Veneto. It is the land of extraordinary food with more than 44 (and counting) DOP and IGP food products, a host of secret wines, medieval towers and fortresses, and a fair amount of geographical chaos.

City or Province? It’s Not You, It’s Italy

This is where travellers to Italy get confused: Italy is divided into regions, then provinces, and each province has a capital city with the same name. Bologna (city) is the capital of Bologna (the province) which is also capital of the Emilia Romagna region. Modena (the city) is located in the Modena (province), Parma (the city) is located in the Province of Parma, and so on. Logical? Only if you know your geography. Confusing? Absolutely.

When you read your favourite blog or watch an eye-catching Instagram post or even read official regional tourist-oriented material about visiting Parma for Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma producers, or Modena for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, people automatically think 'city'. In fact, those delicious food icons are made in the province, not the city. Food producers are nestled among fields, villages, and gently rolling hills, sometimes even in the middle of nowhere, and more often than not over an hour by car outside of the city and certainly not within walking distance of your hotel. 

Another thing to bear in mind is that some of these products are made authentically outside of those particular provinces; for example, Parmigiano Reggiano is made in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and Bologna. In fact, the finest Parmigiano Reggiano is not even made in Parma or Reggio Emilia, but in the mountains of the Modena province!  Using Bologna city or the countryside in the Province of Bologna as a base can be a perfect solution as you are closer to many of the producers than you may think.

Two Souls, One Region

Emilia Romagna may sound like one big happy family, but it’s actually two very different personalities sharing a kitchen.

Emilia (the western half) also known as the ‘Food Valley', is mostly rolling farmland, mountains, dairy farms, pig farms, cherry trees, fruit orchards, vineyards, and a deep culinary seriousness. And just in case you didn’t know, it is also the heart of the region’s most important ‘industrial valleys’: from the Motor Valley and its Lamborghini, Ferrari, Pagani and Ducati factories and its ‘Packaging Valley’ with its high-tech robotic packaging companies. This is the half of the region dedicated to pork, salt and charcuterie as well as wheat and milk production, where food traditions date back to Roman times and the Middle Ages. Every product tells a story of time, patience, precision and local pride. 

Romagna (the eastern half) opens toward the Adriatic Sea. It features stark geographical contrasts between hillside fortresses built by battling families during the Middle Ages and beaches, summer discos, an important fishing industry, as well as vineyards to compete with some of the Tuscan ones (I kid you not), and generally a lighter more familiar energy. Its Extra Virgin Olive Oil is produced in a microclimate on humid hilly terraces and is considered one of the finest in Italy (but with a miniscule production) and it is also home to one of the world’s rarest cheeses. Here, the area is more reminiscent of the backdrop for dragons and fairy tales and sunburnt tourists. 

The two halves were joined mainly for administrative reasons, not because they shared a particular cultural or culinary philosophy. In fact, the Emilians are fiercely ‘Emilian’ and those from Romagna proudly ‘Romagnoli’ and they will always underline the fact. 

And yes, it bears repeating again and again ROMAGNA, Emilia’s other half is not ROMANIA, an independent country in the Balkans. You’d be surprised how often that mix-up happens.

The Practical Bit – or Questions You’ll Be Glad You Asked (before you travel)

Do I need private transport to visit producers?
Yes, unless you’ve mastered teleportation. Authentic food and wine producers are located deep in the countryside, often 45 minutes to 90 minutes from city centres and usually impossible to access using public transportation systems. Private drivers are available with pick-up and return to your accommodation but can typically cost between €250–€580 per day (depending on distances travelled and the amount of people.

What about Car Rental? Do they drive like crazy in Emilia Romagna?
Car rental is actually a refreshing and practical choice (and surprisingly cheap unless you're hiring a Lamborghini). Northern Italy’s roads are well-maintained, signage is clear, and driving is refreshingly sane. If you’ve driven in Los Angeles or Naples (Italy) you’ll manage this with ease.  

However, beware of ZTL zones (limited-traffic areas) in city centres. Your hotel can often help with a permit or parking advice in advance. Also bear in mind that car hire is usually available from airports (or nearby), or alternatively in some city centres near train stations. Car rental also gives you the freedom to explore the beautiful hills of the region and get lost - and finding some hidden gems on your way is virtually guaranteed. 

Where should I stay: city or countryside?

That depends on your appetite.

City stays (Bologna, Modena, Parma, Ravenna, Rimini) offer vibrant markets, museums, iconic churches, art galleries and evenings of people-watching aperitivi under porticoes and in medieval squares. 
Countryside stays give you vineyard views, slower rhythms, country food festivals, an evening gelato with the locals, local home-cooked food and morning cappuccinos shared with local farmers.

For many of my guests, the perfect balance is both: a couple of nights in a city for culture and convenience, followed by a countryside retreat where lunch can last three hours and nobody’s in a hurry.

What if I’m more into art and architecture than food?

Then you’re still in luck. Bologna’s porticoes, Parma’s frescoes and opera, Ferrara’s moated castle, Ravenna’s glittering mosaics; all are stunning and easily reachable by train from all the cities. For culture-focused trips, a city base makes perfect sense.

Final Thoughts

Emilia Romagna might not have Tuscany’s Hollywood aura or Puglia’s Instagram fame, but it quietly outshines them both in authenticity. This is where you’ll meet locals who treat you like family, where food isn’t just eaten but understood, and where each meal tells a story of land, tradition, and love.

Just remember three key rules:
1. City ≠ Province (but they both bear the same name)

2. Emilia ≠ Romagna (two halves of the region to make the whole Emilia Romagna). 

3. Romagna - Emilia's other half ≠ Romania (the country in the Balkans located 1,500km / 940miles due east. 

Master that, and you’ll already be ahead of most travel guides.

And if you do happen to hire a car and get lost along the way? Don’t worry, around here, getting lost usually means finding an even better trattoria or being gifted a basket of cherries from the farm huts located along whichever road you get lost. You'll find yourself truly living the 'Dolce Vita' while expecting the unexpected. 

Independent Traveller? Let’s Plan Your Perfect Trip

If you love travelling independently but wish you had a local friend to help you find the most authentic experiences, Yummy Italy’s Travel Planning Service is for you. We can help with logistics, insider itineraries, and connections to real artisans; the ones you’ll never find on Google Maps. And if you decide you want to relax and let someone drive you, we have a series of certified and registered private cars with drivers that we can suggest. We also have a selection of wonderful accommodation that we can recommend both in the city and the countryside. 

Dates to watch out for when travelling

The middle two weeks of August can be a challenging time to travel as Italy tends to close down due to the Religious festival 'Ferragosto' which takes place on 15th August. NO TOURS OR EXPERIENCES CAN TAKE PLACE ON THIS DATE. The cities tend to be fairly void of locals during this time and smaller shops and purveyors tend to close making any city-based food tours challenging and inauthentic. 

All other religious festivals, Christmas Day on 25th December, Saint Steven's Day on 26th December, Easter Day and Easter Monday (dates vary) are all highly respected in Italy and no tours can take place on these days. 

New Year's Day on 1st January is also closed. 

4th October is the day of Bologna's Patron Saint, San Petronio and the city also closes for business. 

For other dates, always check online regarding the city you will be travelling to as each city has its own Patron Saint day. 

Prefer a fully-guided Food Experience service?  Then check out our offerings here. 

Because in Emilia Romagna, the best moments often happen between destinations.